Tsybikov was the first scholar with a European education to visit Tibet and describe its monasteries and temples as an eyewitness traveler and an objective researcher. Tsybikov had two distinct advantages: an ethnic Buryat he could travel as a Buddhist pilgrim and thus have a chance of reaching its mysterious capital Lhasa, the religious and political center of Tibet, which was barred to outsiders, especially Europeans; as a scholar educated at a European university he had the historical and linguistic background to understand and describe what he saw. Tsybikov understood the secretive nature of the lama state and was careful to hide his work as a researcher. It was his journal that became the basis of A Buddhist Pilgrim at the Shrines of Tibet, which has both the vividness of a traveller's eyewitness account and the informed detachment of a scholar. As a record of both religious practices and the everyday life in Tibet before Chinese inroads during the twentieth century effaced that way of life, Tsybikov's book is a unique and invaluable snapshot of a lost culture.
Buddhist Pilgrim at the Shrines of Tibet, Gombozhab T. Tsybikov, Brill, Hardcover, 290 pp, $138.00
Gombozhab Tsybikov (1873-1930) graduated from the Department of Oriental Languages of St. Petersburg University in 1899, and after his three-year expedition to Tibet, was appointed lecturer in the Mongolian language at the Oriental Institute in Vladivostok. Among his published writings are diaries of journeys to Mongolia (1895), China (1909), and Ugra (1927), commentary and translations on Mongolian literature, and such articles as 'Shamanism of Buryats and Mongols,'National Holidays of Buryats,' 'Mongolian Literature as an Instrument of National Culture,' all in Russian.
CONTENTS: A Buddhist Pilgrim at the Shrines of Tibet
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Foreword
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ix
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Preface to the English Edition
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xi
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List of Illustrations
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xvii
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Author's Autobiographical Note to the 1919 Edition
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xix
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Preface to the 1919 Edition
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xxii
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1
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Pilgrims on the Way from Urga to Kumbum
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1
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2
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The Holy Places of Amdo: Kumbum and Labrang
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12
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3
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Kumbum to Lhasa
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28
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4
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Lhasa--the City and Its Main Shrines
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54
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The City
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54
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The Temple of the Great Ju
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57
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The Temple of the Small Ju, or Rampoche
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65
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Worship at the Shrines
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67
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The Potala Palace of the Dalai Lama and its Surroundings
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69
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5
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The Population of Lhasa
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83
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Composition
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83
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Social Divisions
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86
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Living Conditions
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86
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Clothing and Jewelry
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90
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The Market and Trade
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93
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The Occupation of the Inhabitants
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97
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General Observations
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99
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Sects
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102
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6
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Life in Lhasa
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103
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7
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The Administration of Tibet
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139
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8
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The Dalai Lamas
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147
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9
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An Episode from the Life of the Present Dalai Lama
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158
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10
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The Organization and Administration of the Chief Monasteries in the Environs of Lhasa
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160
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The Gyu Datsans
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170
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11
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Ganden Monastery
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175
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The Journey to Ganden
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175
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Ganden
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177
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12
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Drepun Monastery
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184
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The Journey to Drepun
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184
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Drepun
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186
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On Monastery Life at Drepun
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192
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13
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Sera Monastery
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201
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The Journey from Drepun to Sera
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201
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Sera
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203
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From Sera to Lhasa
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209
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14
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Tashi-lhunpo Monastery
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211
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The Journey to Tashi-lhunpo
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211
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Tashi-lhunpo Monastery
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215
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The Town of Shigatse
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218
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The Suburban Palaces of the Panchens
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219
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The Panchen Rinpoche
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220
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Presentation to the Panchen
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223
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15
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From Tashi-lhunpo to Lhasa
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225
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16
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A Journey to Tseten and Samye
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231
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17
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Going Home: Journey from Lhasa to Kyakhta
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237
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Glossary
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265
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